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Mallorca: The Island In Spain
Culture
Despite the hordes of tourists that invade the island
every year, Mallorca has retained many of its local
traditions. It is particularly famous for cultivated pearls,
which you can buy all over the island (for the best
selections, go to Manacor or Felantx). Another local craft is
top-quality embroidery. As for traditional dance, boleros,
jotas, copeos and mateixes are all practised.
As far as high culture goes, the Spanish surrealist painter
Joan Miró spent his last few years on the island, dying in
Palma on December 25, 1983. In 1992 the Fundació Pilar i Joan
Miró was founded in his Palma studios to display his work.
Another illustrious guest was French composer Frédéric Chopin,
who spent the winter of 1938-39 on Mallorca with his lover
George Sand.
Until mainland Spain imposed Castilian Spanish on the island,
Mallorca's official language was Catalan, the Mallorcan
version of which is Mallorquín. Since the islanders gained
regional autonomy in 1983, they have revived their original
language and all the street names have been changed back to
Catalan.
On a Mediterranean island it's no surprise to find that fish
and seafood figure highly on all menus. But if you want to
taste specific Mallorcan grub, local specialities include
ensaimada, a spiral doughnut-like pastry that's great for
breakfast, and sobrasada, a spicy sausage which you can eat
hot or cold. Mallorca is the only Balearic Island to make its
own wine, which is produced in the Binissalem and Llevant
areas. If you're after something stronger, there's a local
black liqueur called palo de Mallorca.
Activities
The most popular activities on the island are probably
partying, drinking and generally having a good time. However
if you're after something a bit healthier, the hiking on
Mallorca is great, particularly in the mountainous northwest;
spring is the best time, as summer can be a bit hot and dry.
The less hilly areas are better for cycling (unless you like
peddling up mountains), and there are plenty of places on the
island where you can hire bikes. If you like your activities
wet (and not hangover-inducing), most beach resorts offer a
choice of water sports, and hire out sailboards, catamarans,
kayaks and pedalos. You can also take scuba-diving lessons and
hire equipment on the island. For those who prefer slides to
snorkels there's a selection of noisy water parks: don't
forget your sun-tan lotion.
Facts for the Traveler
Visas: US, Canadian, Australian, New Zealand and Israeli
citizens can enter Spain without a visa and stay up to 90
days. EU passport holders can come and go as they please.
Time: GMT/UTC + one hour (+ two hours in summer)
Electricity: 220 volts, 50 Hz AC
When to Go
The island boasts 300-out-of-365 days of sunshine, but
Mallorca's peak season is summer (June, July and August). At
this time the resorts are packed, beaches are bursting and
accommodation and restaurant prices are upped. You will get
the best weather though, with sunny tan-friendly temperatures
and a pleasantly bath-tub-like sea.
In May-June and September-October prices are lower, the island
is less busy and the weather is still pleasant. Even in winter
(December, January and February) the sun sometimes makes an
appearance, but be warned - many businesses shut between
November and April.
Events
The first big bash of the year is January's festival of San
Sebastián, the patron saint of Palma. San Antonio Abad, the
patron saint of animals, is also celebrated in January, with
pet processions and animal blessing ceremonies. The weekend
before Lent, Sa Rua, is carnival time characterised by people
wearing fancy dress and dancing on coloured floats. Semana
Santa, holy week, is an even bigger do: Palma holds
processions every day and the smaller towns have festivities
too. In July the party moves to Valldemossa, where the Carro
Triunfal commemorates Santa Catalina Tomàs, the patron saint
of Mallorca. Also in July, battles from the 1229 Christian
invasion are re-enacted in Pollença. Harvest festivals are
observed all over the island in September/October.
Public Holidays
1 January - New Year's Day
6 January - Epiphany
19 March - St Joseph's Day
1 May - Labour Day
24 June - St John's Day
29 June - St Peter & St Paul's day
25 July - St James's Day
15 August - Assumption of the Virgin
12 October - America Day
1 November - All Saints' Day
6 December - Constitution Day
8 December - Immaculate Conception
25 December - Christmas Day
Currency
euro (EUR), formerly peseta (pta)
Relative Costs
Meals
Budget: US$5-10
Mid-range: US$10-15
Top-end: US$15 and upwards
Lodging
Budget: US$20-40
Mid-range: US$40-70
Top-end: US$70 and upwards
Money Advice
Mallorca, like the rest of Spain, is one of Western Europe's
more affordable destinations. Watch out in peak season though,
as prices of hotels and restaurants shoot up. Clubbing can
also be costly, especially if you patronise the more select
nightspots. If you're on a tight budget you can get by on
US$20 a day; US$40 will get you a few creature comforts like
wine and air-con. Those hanging out in Palma may need a little
more: anything upwards of US$60 a day will ensure you don't
miss out.
Credit and debit cards are widely accepted on the island, and
most banks have ATMs (cajero automatico). For extra security
take travellers cheques too. Most of the towns on the island
have banks where you can cash cheques and exchange cash. The
more touristy areas also have bureaux de change.
Environment
The Balearic Islands sit in
the Mediterranean sea just off the northeast coast of mainland
Spain; floating in between Menorca and Ibiza, Mallorca is the
largest. The capital, Palma de Mallorca, is surrounded by
rocky inlets and harbours on the southern side, while most of
the high-rise tourist resorts line the east coast. Sa
Dragonera is the large, uninhabited island off the island's
westernmost point. The northwest is defined by the dramatic
Serra de Tramuntana mountain range and Mallorca's highest
peak, Puig Major (1445m/4740ft). The northeast coast is made
up of two sweeping bays: the Badia de Pollen ça and the larger
Badia d'Alcúdia. The fertile plain known as Es Pla makes up a
large part of inland Mallorca.
Mallorca's flora and fauna is rich. Trees such as the Aleppo
pine, the evergreen holm oak and the carob tree are common,
while the dwarf palm mainly grows around Pollença, Alcúdia and
Andratx. Attractive orange and lemon orchards grow around
Sóller. The tree heather and wild flowers (hyacinths, violets,
gladioli, etc) are also stunning. Reptiles (snake and gecko),
mountain goats, wild sheep, rabbits and toads are all
residents on the island. Birds of prey, including ospreys,
kestrels and the rare black vulture, inhabit the mountainous
northwest, and migratory birds flock to the marshes in summer.
The Parc Natural de l'Albufera and Cabrera Island are both
protected areas.
The Mediterranean climate of the Balearics keeps Mallorca's
winter comfortably mild (around 15°C/59°F). Summer
temperatures of around 27°C (85°F) are perfect for swimming
(the water is also warm) and other outdoor activities.
Getting There
Mallorca's international airport, Son Sant Joan Airport, is
8km (5mi) from Palma. The island is such a popular destination
that most airlines fly direct. If you want to go via the
mainland, it will invariably up the price of your journey. The
cheapest flights tend to go from Barcelona and Valencia; you
can get particularly good deals in low season. Ferries to
Mallorca also run from these cities and you can buy tickets in
advance or at the ports. A departure tax applies when flying
out of Spain, but this is included in the price of the ticket.
Getting Around
The best way to get around the island is by car or bike, and
there are several rental companies in Palma. If you'd rather
use public transport, a regular bus service connects the
airport with Palma, where you can get buses to the rest of the
island. There are also two train lines running from Plaça de
Espanya in Palma: one goes to Sóller on the northwest coast;
the other inland to Inca. A third train connects Inca with Sa
Pobla. You can get boats and water-taxis between the different
resorts.
If you want to island-hop around the Balearics, there are
(costly) inter-island flights, and ferries, which operate from
Palma, Port d'Alcúdia and Cala Ratjada.
Attractions
Palma de Mallorca
Around half of Mallorca's population live in the capital,
Palma, and it's a buzzing, vibrant place. After dark, its
famous nightlife rivals other Spanish cities. By day, you can
explore the attractive old quarter, crammed with cobbled
lanes, tree-lined boulevards, Gothic churches and designer
boutiques. You're unlikely to be alone; the city is usually
packed with tourists, and you'll pass tacky souvenir shops on
every corner. If you fancy hitting a nearby beach, your choice
is limited to tourist developments a bus-ride away.
You can't miss the imposing Gothic cathedral, built between
1230 and 1600. Visitors can wonder at Gaudi's curious
wrought-iron sculpture hanging from the ceiling and check out
the adjacent museum of shiny religious artefacts. In front of
the cathedral stands the Palau de l'Almudaina, an Islamic
castle that became a Mallorcan royal residence. The winding
streets of the surrounding historic quarter are home to the
Museu de Mallorca, a converted 15th-century palace containing
archaeological finds, antiques and paintings of local
dignitaries. The Banyas Arabas (Arab Baths) are also in this
area. Opposite the waterfront is Gothic masterpiece La Llotja,
which contains an art museum. Just west of the city centre is
the impressive Bellver Castle.
When you're looking for a hotel, don't be tempted by the
waterfront tourist places west of the centre - they are a long
way from anywhere. Central Palma is at the heart of the action
and the best place to aim for. If you're looking to party, the
happening old quarter has more bars and pubs - from flashy
tourist haunts to stylish bodegas - than you can shake a pint
at.
Valldemossa
This attractive town owes its fame largely to Frédéric Chopin
and his lover George Sand, who spent their famous 'winter of
discontent' (1938-39) in Cartuja de Valldemossa. This former
monastery was converted into rental accommodation after the
monks were turfed out in 1835. Today you can visit the lovely
gardens and rooms: highlights of the tour are Chopin's piano,
his death mask and several of his original manuscripts.
More recently (spring 2000), actor Michael Douglas opened the
Costa Nord show in Valldemossa. It has two parts: a
documentary on the history of that part of the island, and a
mock-up of the master's quarters on the ship Nixe. The ship
belonged to Archduke Luis Salvador, who was so enamoured of
Mallorca he proceeded to buy up large chunks of it. This may
have been so he could walk all over it (the Archduke forged
many paths through the surrounding mountains which hikers can
enjoy today). A few kilometres north of Valldemossa one of
Salvador's former residences, Can Marroig, is open to the
public.
It's worth exploring the rest of the town too, which is small
but charming (if you ignore the inevitable tourist tack). If
you fancy a swim, the rocky cove of Port de Valldemossa is 7km
(4mi) away. There, a handful of restaurants will vie for your
post-swim custom.
Valldemossa is small enough to do in a day, although there's a
limited choice of accommodation if you want to stay. The town
is 15km (9mi) from Palma and buses run from the capital daily.
Deià
The idyllic town of Deià has a bohemian feel: the setting is
stunning and it has attracted a large number of artists,
writers and musicians over the years. English poet Robert
Graves died here in 1985 and is buried in the hillside
cemetery. The town's main street is lined with artists'
workshops and galleries selling locally produced work. There
are also many bars and cafes where you can sketch, write
poetry, or just have a beer. Beside the church is the Museu
Parroquial, which has an interesting collection of religious
effects, icons and old coins. The Archaeological Museum &
Research Centre displays artefacts found in the Valldemossa
area. On the coast, Cala de Deià has popular swimming spots
and bar-restaurants. Daily buses run from Palma to Deià.
Sóller
To really appreciate Sóller, take the old train from Palma; it
twists and turns past trees and olive groves, through the
stunning Tramuntana mountains. The journey takes about an
hour, and the views are spectacular. Many people use the town
as a base for walking in the surrounding area, but it's also a
charming place to explore, with attractive old buildings, lush
gardens and open plazas. Bars and restaurants border the main
square, Plaça de la Constitució. The 16th-century Església
Parroquial de San Bartolomé is also here, its modernist facade
belying a beautiful Gothic interior. An ex-San Francisco tram
takes visitors down to the attractive but overcrowded in high
season Port de Sóller on the coast. Boats run excursions to Sa
Calobra, Deià, Sant Elm and Illa sa Dragonera.
Alcúdia
Set between two huge bays, Badia de Pollença and Badia
d'Alcodia, this busy town was once a Roman settlement.
Although you can see remnants of its ancient past, the town
has a slightly sanitised feel and most of the medieval walls
encircling it are a modern copy. Just outside the walls are
the remains of the Roman city of Pollètia, 1200 sq m (2150 sq
ft) of which have been excavated and opened to the public. The
Pollentia Museum in Alcúdia exhibits archaeological finds from
the site. If you're not bored of Roman remains, you can also
pretend to be a gladiator in the ruined amphitheatre.
For a change of scenery, the Parc Natural de l'Albufera nature
reserve nearby is excellent walking, cycling and bird-watching
country. Look out for moorhens and coots in the grass, and
herons and flamingos in the reeds. You can pick up a map and
list of birds to spot at the reception centre. Buses go to the
park from Port d'Alcúdia (the seaside resort around 2km (1mi)
from Alcúdia), and from Alcúdia to Palma.
Coves del Drac (Caves of the Dragon)
With almost 2000m (6550ft) of caves and six subterranean
lakes, this attraction is not for the claustrophobic. The
caves were discovered near Porto Cristo on the east coast in
1896, and today crowds of visitors come for the hour-long
multilingual tour - be prepared to queue if you come at a
weekend. The beautifully illuminated clusters of stalactites
and stalagmites are named after things they resemble, though
inevitably some labels are more obvious than others. The
highlight of the tour is classical musicians playing from
boats on a large underground lake. Inspired by this evocative
spectacle, you can take a boat ride across the lake before you
leave the caves.
If you want to stay out of daylight for a bit longer, Porto
Cristo's large aquarium is not far from the caves. Kids
particularly enjoy the deadly sea creatures on display.
The principal coastal road runs through Porto Cristo; from
here buses run to Palma and Port d'Alcúdia.
Off The
Beaten Track
Manacor
If you're after the island's famous pearls, Mallorca's
second largest town is the place to come. This industrial city
has been cultivating pearls since 1890, and numerous shops
here flog the little gems. The best place to get them is the
factory on the outskirts of town, where you can take a tour of
the manufacturing process before you buy. Don't come looking
for a bargain though; artificial pearls, such as those
cultivated in Manacor, look very like (and last longer than)
the real thing so they can be quite expensive. After your
shopping you can refuel with a taste of the local speciality,
sobrasada, a spicy sausage. There's not much to see in the
town itself (which is pretty unattractive) except the church,
Esglesia dels Delors de Nostra Senyora, built on the site of
the former mosque.
Manacor is on the C715 road, just inland from Porto Cristo.
Cap de Formentor
Right in the north of Mallorca, this rocky promontory is
an out-of-the-way paradise. The lighthouse on the northernmost
point is out of bounds, but the area surrounding it is great
for walking, lizard-spotting and bird-watching. If you have
the time and the money, stay at the elegant, Hotel Formentor,
whose previous guests include Winston Churchill and Grace
Kelly. The terrace has fantastic views of the bay and the
gardens are lovely. By the hotel the sandy beaches of Platja
de Formentor are sheltered by shady pine forests. Nearby there
are facilities for golf and horse riding.
A steep, narrow road leads out of Port de Pollença to Cap de
Formentor. In high season buses go out to the promontory from
Palma and Port de Pollença.
Cala Mondragó
Trying to find an unspoilt beach on Mallorca's developed east
coast is not an easy task. If you get to Cala Mondragó quite
early in the morning, however, you're likely to bag a top spot
on one of the most attractive. Pine trees and rocky outcrops
shelter this protected sandy cove and accommodation is limited
to a couple of houses and a large hostel. One beach bar
surrounded by deck chairs serves refreshing cocktails and soft
drinks.
About 2km (1.2mi) south of Porto petro, a mini train takes
people from Porto petro to Cala Mondragó and the other resorts
along the coast.
Illa de Cabrera
This uninhabited island sits around 20km (12mi) off the south
coast of Mallorca. Along with the surrounding islets it's part
of the Parc Nacional Archipiélago de Cabrera, and you can only
get to it by joining a tour or getting special permission. An
island with a strong military history, certain parts of it are
off limits due to unexploded armaments. As far as sights go,
the castle overlooking the harbour is about it; the real
appeal of the island lies in its stunning wildlife and
vegetation. If you're lucky, you may see a blue-underbellied
Liffords wall lizard, or dolphins indulging in off-shore
frolicks. Birds such as shags, herring gulls and peregrine
falcons can be spotted flying around the cliffs - be sure to
take your binoculars.
Boat trips to the island run from Colònia de Sant Jordi
harbour. You can get a bus from Palma, Cala d'Or or Cala
Figuera to Colònia de Sant Jordi.
History
It's not clear exactly where they came from or how they got
there, but the first settlers on Mallorca were cave dwellers
who left behind pottery and tools made from animal horns. The
Talayotic period followed around 1000 BC: you can still see
Talayots (cone-shaped towers) at Capocorp Vell in the south of
the island. Phoenician and Greek traders came next and it's
possible that the name Balearic comes from ballein, the Greek
for sling throwing. These sling-throwers helped the
Carthaginians fight the Romans in the 2nd Punic War, but by
123 BC the Romans had control of Mallorca. True to form they
built roads and towns, and introduced the island to
Christianity.
At the beginning of the 10th century the island was annexed to
the Emirate of Córdoba, kicking off 300 years of Moorish rule.
During this time Mallorca had its ups and downs. There were
serious squabbles between the Muslims and Christians, but
trade prospered from its strategic position between Africa and
Islamic Spain, and agriculture improved.
This prosperity tempted King Jaume I of Aragón and Catalunya,
who, annoyed with the Emir of Mallorca for stealing some of
his ships, decided to have a crack at the island in 1229.
Successful, he created an independent Kingdom of Mallorca,
unfortunately destroying many Moorish buildings in the
process. On the plus side, he governed progressively, giving
rights to the island's Jews, waiving taxation and stimulating
trade. He also built Palma cathedral. On his death he left his
realm to his two sons: Pedro inherited Catalunya, Aragón and
Valencia; Jaume II received Montpellier, Roussillon and the
Balearics. The Balearics continued to prosper, and in 1349 a
jealous Pedro IV of Aragón landed in Mallorca and claimed it
for himself.
Having lost its independence, Mallorca was quickly neglected
by a ruling elite more interested in the Aragonese court. The
islands were not allowed to trade with the newly discovered
Americas, and the economy went into decline. The 16th century
saw civil unrest, Jewish executions ordered by the Inquisition
and threats from the Ottoman Turks. The 17th century wasn't
much better: trade didn't improve and the plague killed
thousands of people.
By the 18th century Mallorca's official language, Catalan, had
been replaced by Castilian Spanish. This did not deter the
waves of Catalan refugees who fled to the island during the
Napoleonic wars. Famine, drought and epidemics made
19th-century life hard on the island, however. Communications
with mainland Spain, a new railway and agricultural
advancements helped and Catalan culture experienced a revival.
Nonetheless many islanders left Mallorca for America.
With the advent of mass tourism in the 1950s the island made
an impressive comeback. Since then thousands of people have
flocked to the beautiful beaches every year (9 million in 1999
alone), and the islanders now enjoy the highest standard of
living in Spain. But this has come at a price: unattractive
resort developments have spoiled much of the coast, and more
than a fifth of all property on the island is in foreign
hands. In 1983 the Balearic Islands became one of Spain's
autonomous regions, with Palma de Mallorca its capital. The
administration now faces a dilemma: how to continue the
prosperity without losing the island's natural beauty to
concrete.
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